I’m a regular in France. In fact, you could almost call me a local in the beautiful garden city of Nantes (where my best friend lives) but with the upcoming Paris Olympics I thought it would be timely to share some insights for those planning a visit to the bustling City of Love.
Paris is unique compared to the rest of France, with distinct sights, sounds, and yes, even smells. The streets are narrow, there are a few homeless and one must navigate around the occasional dog excrement (as dog owners in Paris do not feel that they have to pick up after their best friends). Despite these quirks, Paris offers a rich and enjoyable experience.
For the Olympics, some of the most iconic landmarks in Paris will serve as venues for the Games. For example, beach volleyball will take place at the Eiffel Tower, and equestrian events will be held at the Palace of Versailles and the Olympic Village will be located in Seine-Saint-Denis, a northern suburb of Paris. Lots of locals book time away from Paris to avoid festivities and with recent protests, expect some delays.
Pro Tip: Book away from this area if you’re looking for real french culture and triple the budget expectations as rentals and hotels will be prime tourism prices.
My first trip to Paris was with two friends. We decided to explore the “City of Love” as a girls trip, 10/10 recommended. We rented an Airbnb, a charming old apartment with a beautiful wooden elevator that added a touch of elegance to our stay.
We explored the tourist sites along the River Seine which flows through the heart of Paris, dividing the city into the Left Bank and the Right Bank. It’s lined with historic landmarks and beautiful bridges. We encountered many street hawkers selling bangles and trinkets. Interestingly, they rarely approached me, likely due to my “London face”—a stone face of no acknowledgment and no eye contact that helps you navigate any city without interruptions.
Pro tip: If you are getting bothered by them be firm and don’t make chit chat – they’ll leave you alone if they no there’s no hope of swaying you for a sale.
We navigated Paris using the Metro – it’s one of the oldest underground systems in the world, opening in 1900. It has 16 lines, 303 stations, and is famous for its Art Nouveau entrances designed by Hector Guimard. For those first time metro users, coming from New Zealand, it can be daunting, particularly when other travellers are jumping the barrier to skip the fare. But the metro isn’t like public transport back home, so you don’t need to book accommodation in central Paris. Go for the more affordable outskirts, and commute into the city because there will be Metro station nearby and you have the luxury of being on holiday and not having to commute during rush hour.
Consider getting a Paris Metro Tourist Pass or Subway Pass to make your journey around the city seamless and budget-friendly. As a Kiwi venturing to Paris, you’ll appreciate the convenience and cost savings these passes offer. The Paris Metro Tourist Pass grants unlimited access to the metro network, ensuring you can hop on and off as you please, whether you’re heading to the Eiffel Tower or the vibrant neighbourhoods of Montmartre. Similarly, the Paris Subway Pass provides a straightforward way to navigate the city’s underground system, making it a breeze to attend Olympic events without the hassle of buying individual tickets.
You can purchase these passes at various locations, including the ticket counters and vending machines found at major metro stations, such as Gare du Nord, Châtelet, and Charles de Gaulle Airport. For added convenience, passes are also available online through the official Paris Metro website and can be delivered to your home before you travel. Embrace the local culture and travel like a Parisian, all while staying on track with your itinerary.
One of the most unforgettable experiences of this trip was visiting the Catacombs. Despite the long line, going underground, it was worth it. I’ve never seen anything like it in my life. The Catacombs of Paris are an underground ossuary holding the remains of over six million people. They were created in the late 18th century to address the city’s overflowing cemeteries and have since become a famous, if eerie, tourist attraction.
The bones are artistically arranged in the labyrinthine tunnels, making it both a historical and macabre site to visit. In the past, the Catacombs were used as hideouts by various criminal elements, including gangsters. One notable group was the infamous Parisian gang known as the “Apache” gang. The Apaches were active in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The labyrinthine nature of the Catacombs provided a perfect refuge from the authorities. Grab the best price on Catacomb tickets here.
We then made our way to The Louvre, which requires a whole weekend to fully appreciate. I will be going back to spend an entire weekend in Paris solely focused on the Louvre because a day was not enough to apply all the random knowledge and skills I learned in my history and classics classes back in high school.
Pay for the guided audio tour at the Louvre. All the signs and information cards are in French, with no English translations. If you’re like me and try to ask someone nearby what a plaque says, you’ll likely receive a dirty look and a stream of French profanities complaining that you shouldn’t be there. Tourists are despised in all major cities of Europe as they can sometimes be stupid or just walk too slow.
Fun fact: The Louvre is the world’s largest art museum and a historic monument in Paris. It is home to over 35,000 works of art, including the Mona Lisa and the Venus de Milo.
The Mona Lisa is incredibly small. If you really want a good look, you’ll have to muscle your way to the front of the crowd and get 30 seconds to marvel at it. But you’ll quickly be shoved aside or complained about until you move because there’s just a huge crowd. It’s the same with the Rosetta Stone at the British Museum—just a mob of people. You have to get to the front, see it, and then walk away. However, there are other beautiful, famous art pieces that no one crowds around and few notice because they’re on the walls of the galleries, mixed in with many other stunning works.
So, take a look at the Mona Lisa, but don’t get upset about not being able to stare at it for ages.
Pro Tip: The lines for the Lourve can get long. With lots of crowds, comes long lines, so skip the queue and pre-purchase your tickets to the Lourve here.
If you were hoping to visit the beautiful French Gothic masterpiece built from 1163-1345, unfortunately a fire destroyed a lot of it in 2019. However, it has been under construction since and is still going. The restoration is said to be completed in December of this year (2024), so if this was on your bucket list and you’re visiting Paris for the Olympics, then what a great excuse to book another trip back to the city of love.
While in Paris, no doubt you will see a manifestation. This is when Parisians come together to organise or protest. Actually, come to think of it, if you are catching the Eurostar from London to Paris, you may experience delays due to these manifestations. Similarly, when returning, you may encounter delays for the Eurostar back to London.
If you mentally prepare for these in advance and expect them, then you can take a good book or listen to a podcast while you wait. Honestly, it takes 3.5 hours to travel from New Zealand to Australia. Whenever I have a delay getting to France, I still figure it’s a shorter commute than crossing the ditch, and you’re getting a unique experience. Three hours waiting in a beautiful train station or sitting on a train with a food carriage where you can bring your own wine? The delays are nothing compared to the end goal.
The same can be said for airlines. Delays are very common due to airport staff going on strike, but the airlines will notify you of this. When you know it’s for better pay or work conditions, you can’t be mad. They’re not ever done out of the blue; they are always scheduled, so your airline will keep you posted on whether or not there are strikes. All airlines’ standard cover for delays and cancellations still applies after four hours of delay.
There are the yellow vest/jackets protests, which are regular weekly protests for fuel costs, minimum wage rises, and any social or societal issues that the French people want to address. Also, don’t be surprised to see riot police with full riot shields and batons ready to manoeuvre the crowds of protesters. Both are usually relatively peaceful, but as things heat up politically, so do the streets of Paris, as we’ve seen in recent years with the retirement age change.
The amazing thing about Parisians is that they get on with their day while at the same time acknowledging the protest. French people can talk politics and do so passionately, but not during meals. During meals, all conversation centres around food.
Speaking French can be challenging due to the nuances of pronunciation, but perseverance pays off. Occasionally, a Parisian who has travelled will sympathise and offer a small compliment on your effort. While visiting, knowing a few basic phrases can enhance your experience.
On Duo lingo you need to do over 100 days of daily lessons to get anywhere beyond counting cats and saying you own a red dress. I dated a french man for almost 2 years and never got around to mastering the basics, which paid off when we broke up as he had some strong words to say to me and luckily i had no idea what he was saying.
Here are some essential phrases that you will find yourself using, say them fast: :
Practise these and use your google translate app to do the rest, it is better to get out there and get amongst it than worry that you don’t know enough French. If you’re coming from New Zealand, be prepared for friendly jests about the All Blacks.
At the end of the day, unless you make awesome connections with wonderful people that like you for you and don’t care that your french isn’t great, you will never see these people again.
In my later trips a group of french friends hit Paris for a festival and clubbing. Paris, Dinner starts late. You don’t typically begin until 8 or 9 PM. The pub atmosphere is vibrant, with people gathering to celebrate, to eat, to catch up about their busy day or yelling from tables in bars while playing “blind test.” This game involves playing the first few seconds of a song, and the first team to guess the song and artist wins a point—much more exciting than a regular quiz night and then you move on to the main events, gigs or clubs.
Like the Spanish, the French prefer to start late and end late, you might be used to heading home by 1 or 2 AM, but in Paris, you’ll likely stay out until 5 or 6 AM. Even then, the night doesn’t end. There will be more talking, more smoking, and more drinking when you return home. This is typical when spending time with Parisians and the French in general.
When you go clubbing, expect to hear French songs sung with passion, with everyone joining in on the dance floor. France has a great electronic music dance scene and a strong presence of rap music. The drinking culture is different from what you might be used to. It’s not about drinking as much as you can, but rather about enjoying nice alcohol in moderation over a longer period. You don’t need to chug drinks to get drunk; instead, you will gradually become intoxicated and will need to maintain that state as long as the night lasts. That’s not to say that the French don’t get drunk, it’s just not as quickly as we’re used to in New Zealand.
Binge drinking isn’t cool here and you will be met with a lot of dirty looks and maybe even some rude french words. Another thing you wont be used to is the inside smoking areas with big industrial extractor fans and large crowds of people smoking and chatting in them.
After a big night out, you will be hanging for a “pick me up”. Morning coffee in Paris is different from what you might be wanting…. Expect a small black coffee, a milk coffee or an espresso, but not a flat white.
Pro Tip: Mentioning the All Blacks can warm up most conversation with the French. They’ll be happy to jest with you about the better rugby team.
Street vendors, street sellers, and street artists are everywhere, and prices vary for these items. It’s totally up to you what you buy. Central cafes and restaurants are expensive, but the food is amazing, especially for me when I compare it to London. My soul sings when I arrive in France at any port or location for my absolute love of food!
If you can, visit a supermarket and marvel at the cheese aisle. Don’t be put off by pungent smells because, trust me, the stronger the smell, the better the taste. I’ve tried my fair share of cheeses, and I regularly visit just to enjoy them. They make Edam and Colby seem boring and bland. The prices are incredibly affordable, especially compared to Dairy back home.
Bread, again, is a daily staple that fills the soul. Maybe it’s just me, but my intolerances don’t seem to be affected by French bread as much as they are by UK or American breads. Another of my favourites is Saucisson which has a huge variety of flavours. You can’t go wrong with having some in your handbag while you’re walking around Paris.
Yes there are snails and frogs legs and steak tartare are commonplace. Steak tartare will be uncooked mince with capers mixed all through it with a raw egg on top, not slender strips of uncooked steak as you may expect. Raclette, Crepes, Gallette you will find yourself eating over and over.
However, dining in Paris can be hit or miss. Restaurants often recognise tourists and may not put much effort into their service. On one trip, my french friends and I walked into a restaurant for steak but decided to leave immediately due to the poor ambiance—a valuable lesson in trusting your instincts about where to eat. Waiters often take it upon themselves to recommend what you should eat and how much, which can be helpful since it’s easy to over order but sometimes they can come across as bossy or dismissive. Roll with it or leave to find something better – there are plenty of options.
The culture is familiar enough that you can navigate solo without any issue, but you’ll still feel that you’ve experienced something different and can bring something home.
With the new Brexit regulations, you can’t bring certain items back to the UK without them being checked. However, if you have checked luggage and you’ve never tried champagne before, France is the place to do it because it is good, affordable, and plentiful. If you’re thinking about bringing some French cuisine back to London or Britain in general, be sure to mark on your immigration card that you have food to declare. This will guarantee you aren’t landed with a fine.
I live in London, so the best way to get to Paris (if there aren’t any cheap flights) is on the Eurostar (train). You can find the best prices (in NZD$), instant booking and easy to access tickets here.
If you’re flying from New Zealand direct to Paris and have some time on your hands, why not checkout an overnight trip to London? The Eurostar makes it easy, you get to see some great scenery and you can be in London (or Paris) in approximately 2hours and 17minutes. With the ability to take your own wine onboard (come on, French wine is divine) and food carts available the entire trip, it’s a great way to get out of the city.
To fully embrace Parisian life, it’s essential to adapt to their schedule and pace. Enjoy the late dinners, the passionate music, and the prolonged socialising. By immersing yourself in this vibrant culture, you’ll gain a deeper appreciation for the unique lifestyle that makes Paris such an extraordinary city. Whether you’re exploring the historical sites, savouring the local cuisine, or simply strolling through the charming streets, France has a unique way of capturing your heart.The food, culture, and overall ambiance offer a refreshing escape from the hustle and bustle of London.
Friend me on duo lingo see how bad I am at French! (Click below) and remember to checkout my other guest blog posts here.
If you have any questions, send them to nicola@prettyfarfromhome.com
Jasmine x
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